Advanced Wrist Stability Training for Climbing | Bulletproof Wrists Pt. 2
Hooper's Beta Ep. 23
Intro:
Featured in this video is an advanced wrist and upper extremity stability program. If you haven’t checked out the introductory wrist stability program, please check that out before you jump into these exercises. Keep in mind, these are advanced exercises so participation in them should be done based on your current strength/skill level and it is also advisable that you perform a warm up before performing some of these more advanced stability exercises.
Why do we need an advanced wrist stability program?
Simple:
Recover from an injury
Prevent a future injury.
If you have had an injury to your wrist, you inherently are at a higher risk of a re-injury. So you need to build up additional strength and proprioception in order to reduce your likelihood of a future injury. On the other hand, if you have been climbing for years without any wrist issues, but are looking for some possible strategies to help prevent an injury, then check this video out and see what applies to your training.
Why more closed chain activities in this video?
Well, closed chain helps load the joint and work on proprioception and awareness, or in a more simple sense, stability. If our body knows what muscles, how much force, and how quickly to generate force if it finds itself in an unstable situation, it will be better equipped to handle those situations and better able to prevent an injury.
So let's get into it! Here are the exercises with some descriptions.
BOSU Push-Ups (1:20)
Start with the BOSU dome down and by grasping the Bosu on either side. You can also place your palms flat on the BOSU if you have good mobility in your wrists / fingers, otherwise, start by grasping on either side. First, rock the BOSU side to side with control. If you can safely perform this action, you can proceed to working on a full push up. Modify this if it is too difficult by starting from your knees or modify your depth.
BAPS Board Tennis Ball Circles (2:45)
While this can be performed on your knees, you need to create some load through your wrists or it will not challenging you enough to improve your proprioception. Leave one hand on stable ground after you place the tennis ball on the board. Work on controlling the ball around the BAPS board performing both clockwise and counter-clockwise motions.
Suspension Push-Ups (4:10)
The great thing about this exercise is the ability to change the difficulty simply by raising or lowering the height of the TrX / suspension cables. More upright, easier. More parallel to the ground, harder. Get into position, and perform a controlled push up. Many variations from this exist but this will focus more on the wrists in a safe position.
Medicine Ball Push-Ups (5:04)
Start by just placing 1 hand on a medicine ball, the other hand on stable ground. Get into a plank position and if you can, perform push ups. Progression: have two hands each on a medicine ball to increase the challenge.
MB Up-and-Downs (6:20)
Start with both hands on medicine balls. Keep one hand stable while the other hand moves the medicine ball forward and backward.
MB Circles (7:04)
If the MB up-and downs were challenging, don’t do this one yet. Rather, focus on the previous exercises until they become easy. With this exercise you want to perform clockwise and counterclockwise movements to really challenging your wrist stability.
Dynamic Push-Ups with MB (7:45)
This may seem intense but it is great at a higher level. The quick impact and loading helps improve your response time so that if you do have a fall, your body is aware of what to do and how to load properly. Start with a plyo ball if you have one and perform on a yoga mat, always. This will help to soften your landing so you don’t create hand or wrist pain. Start with small and slow movements and work to bigger as you progress.
Sets & Reps:
Perform sets and reps to fatigue. If you begin shaking, you likely need to stop and rest. If you are shaking from the onset, you may need to choose an easier exercise. The shaking can indicate that you are fatiguing and with the nature of these exercises focusing on unstable situations, you may be at risk for a tumble. Disclaimer: Any exercise shown in this video are to be performed at the user's own risk. This information is not meant to replace direct medical intervention and if you have serious concerns you should seek professional help immediately.
Products Mentioned (Amazon affiliate links):
Inexpensive Therabands: https://amzn.to/2Q1TVUS
Wrist Widget: https://amzn.to/2F1gXoN
Medicine balls (all different weights): https://amzn.to/3anAWwb
Yoga mat: https://amzn.to/2tiVq8Y
Cheap BAPS-type board: https://amzn.to/375jquP
Gymnastic rings: https://amzn.to/3amh1ha
Disclaimer:
As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.
Written and Presented by Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, CAFS
IG: @hoopersbetaofficial
Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt
www.emilemodesitt.com
IG: @emile166
Special thanks to The Wall for letting us film!
IG: @thewallclimbinggym
