Which Finger Training Edge is Best? Initial Tests and Ranking
Hooper’s Beta Ep. 152
Introduction
There are countless fingerboard edges on the market—flat, curved, beveled, incut, wood, plastic, metal—and we’ve always wondered: What’s the point of all these variations? Do some of them help you get stronger? Are others just uncomfortable gimmicks?
To find out, we put them to the test.
The Experiment
In this first installment of our edge comparison series, we gathered a diverse lineup of edge designs—over ten types in total—and performed max-effort pulls on each one using a force gauge. Each edge was mounted to a standardized rig, with strap height kept constant to ensure a fair comparison. We used whatever grip felt most natural for each edge and rested between attempts to minimize fatigue.
But we didn’t stop at numbers—we also gave our subjective takes on each edge: comfort, ergonomics, friction, material feel, and how they loaded our fingers. Once the tests were complete, we revealed the results and ranked each edge from S-tier (elite) to F-tier (no thanks).
The Tools: Featuring the PitchSix Force Board
This whole experiment wouldn’t have been possible without the PitchSix Force Board. Built by a climber-engineer out of Utah, the Force Board is a purpose-designed device that makes collecting finger training data fast, simple, and accurate.
Some standout features include:
Auto-start rep logging (no button pressing required)
Rate of Force Development (RFD) tracking per rep
Session-wide load summaries
Built-in temperature and humidity sensor
USB-C charging
Compact design with useful accessories
We’ve used a lot of tools in the finger strength space, and the Force Board really hits the sweet spot for ease of use and reliable output. If you want to run your own edge comparisons or just level up your training precision, it's hard to beat.
👉 Use code HOOPERSBETA for $10 off at checkout — available worldwide. Click here to learn more (affiliate link)!
What We Found
Some edges we expected to love didn’t perform as well as we thought. Others surprised us with how strong and balanced they felt. For example:
The Tension Block (20mm flat wood edge) remained a classic—simple, comfortable, and versatile. Solid A-tier.
The Tension Ergo Edge, with its steep curve, felt awkward but scored surprisingly high in performance.
Metal edges (like the Lattice Quad Block) felt cold, slippery, and unstable, but this was mainly due to not positioning the rope correctly at the beginning of the test. Once the rope was in the correct slot in the device, it actually topped the force rankings in some cases due to the size of the edge.
A custom molded thermoplastic edge, designed to fit a specific hand shape, felt fantastic for general use but lacked grip security during max pulls.
Emile’s 3D printed incut edge offered great friction and comfort, especially for crimp-heavy climbers.
One clear takeaway: size matters. Larger edges generally allowed us to pull harder. But ergonomics, edge angle, and surface friction also played significant roles in how usable or comfortable each edge felt.
Testing Limitations
This wasn’t a lab experiment—it was a practical, hands-on field test. Variables like skin condition, finger morphology, fatigue, and personal grip preference definitely influenced the outcomes. And since different climbers have different goals—max strength vs. rehab vs. capacity training—there's no one-size-fits-all answer.
We also learned that the wear and polish of an edge over time can subtly (or significantly) impact performance. A well-used wooden edge may become slick, while fresh plastic might bite too hard on the skin.
What’s Next?
This was Part 1—a more casual, performance- and opinion-driven review. In Part 2, we plan to dive deeper into the theory behind these edge designs. We’ll break down what each shape is meant to accomplish, which ones we’d actually train on long-term, and how edge choice might shift depending on your goals or injury history.
Bonus Tip
If you're dealing with finger pain or coming off an injury, don't go maxing out on new edges just yet. Instead, check out our free injury assessment tool and our Recovery Blueprints to guide your rehab properly. Your fingers will thank you.
Want More?
Let us know in the comments if you'd like to see Part 2! And tell us: Which edge do you use for training—and why?
Until next time: train, climb, send, repeat.
DISCLAIMER
The Beta Agency is providing content on its website that aims to inform rock climbing enthusiasts and/or individuals interested in the field of physical therapy of the various physical conditions that may befall those engaged in the sport of rock climbing, for informational purposes only. None of the information provided by The Beta Agency should be regarded as medical advice or construed to be a medical diagnosis of any form. By using our products, services, and/or the information on our website, you acknowledge that you understand this information is not meant to be a substitute for medical advice from an appropriate licensed healthcare professional, and that you will not rely on any of the information you acquire from us as the sole basis, personally or as a suggestion to others, to make any healthcare-related decision(s). If you suspect that you may have a medical condition that you are trying to diagnose, we strongly urge you to seek the advice of an appropriate medical practitioner. If you have a medical emergency, you should contact emergency services immediately.
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